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Island Brač,

Updated: May 15

it is pronounced with a 'Č'. You don't make that 'K' sound. The sound is like 'Ch' in Chumbawamba. You can't miss this island if you are starting your sailing from anywhere in Split area. It is there in front of Split blocking your view on of Hvar (the touristic 'spring break', Ibiza island).

Usually it is used as a first/last overnight stop. And when you look at the position of the town of Milna on a map, it seems a logical choice. Let's see the pros and cons of Milna. Starting with the cons... First: Everybody is there. Same day, same place, 4 marinas. Do the math! Second: No matter the big tourist expansion, Milna doesn't have that much to offer. Few restaurants that are capable to feed you, but not much more. Bars where Cuba Libre is the cocktail they can make. A beach 30 min walking distance. Even TripAdvisor listed one of 5 things to do in Milna to be a trip to the beach on the other side of the island. Third: It is a newish settlement, so not much history going on there. (Now I am expecting a phone call from Milna's tourist office...) I forgot the pros...


10 Cool things to do on Brač:


Pustinja Blaca, Blaca monastery (although 'pustinja' in Croatian means 'a desert'). Location link. Approaching by the sea, as you should, it is 40 minutes walking distance from the bay Blaca, where you can anchor. 220m (720tf) above the sea level so it is not a difficult climb. For me, the walk itself is the best part. On your way, you will change 4 completely different sceneries. There were 5, but a big forest fire in 2011 wiped out one-fifth of the island vegetation. Some geniuses were barbecuing. Once you are there, lay down on the grass in front of the monastery and enjoy the view. The monastery is also a museum so you can visit if open. It's worth it. There is a piano, a telescope, an old classroom for local kids and more... Bring water and some cash for the tickets.

Zlatni rat the famous beach. Yes, OK, if you like that kind of a mess on the beach go and enjoy. Surfers, kiters, speedboats, topless girls, expensive cocktails.... that type of place. The port of Bol (2km east from the beach) is a place where you can rent a scooter, car, taxi, quad... and go to the highest point of all the Adriatic islands. 778m (2552ft) Vidova gora. If you are Slovenian or some other kind of eccentric sports fanatic, you can climb also. Never did. The best time to be there is, of course, at sunset. Little bit gay, but we all are sometimes. Surprise your loved one with a bottle of wine and a nice glass from the boat. Walk past the abandoned restaurant and past the big Christian cross and you will find remains of a 13th-century church. Be there 1 hour before the sunset because of the angles of the sun over the mountain. From the top (where the antennas are) you can see all the central Dalmatian islands, and in the north, the Hercegovina part of Bosnia and Hercegovina. If you are extremely lucky, far, far in the distance over all the islands there is Italy. The best visibility is after rain when the north wind (Bura) starts to blow. For me, the best experience of Zlatni rat beach is from here. Back in the port, have a fancy glass of wine in the first Dalmatian Winemaking Co-op. (You can't miss the sign. Letters are 1m high.)

Valentino. Owner, cook, waiter, host, resident, provider of the restaurant Konoba Tomić in Gornji Humac. For over 8 centuries this house is in his family. Everything you are served is from his own production or from the local fisherman. My suggestion for the menu is: Starter: Prosciutto, cheese and pickled spring onion butts. Main: Pieces of lamb on a spit grilled on live-fire + potatoes buried in that burned wood under the fire. Ask for some grappa hidden behind the bar, right from the main entrance. That is for friends and family only. Insist on a tour of the cellar where he keeps all the stuff you had for diner. If he is making any type of resistance, just pass him to me on your phone. (Of course, if you are our guest. If not then you should suffer)

Perivoj. Dock in the bay of Sumartin. Half an hour uphill you will find a town called Selca. Skip all the signs for restaurants and have a pizza at Perivoj. That is what we consider a good pizza here. Not a fancy Italian minimalistic piece of art, but a solid meal for a light stroke or a mild diabetes experience. But the pizza is not why you are there. It is the local people. In fact, you will notice that it is hard to run into locals if you are practically anywhere in Dalmatia during the season. Even the bartenders are mostly not from here. They are seasonal workers from all over the ex-Yugoslavia and further (110 million tourists overnights on one million residents). So, in the morning, in this bar/pizza place, you will find locals meeting before going to work. And if you do see any tourists among them sipping their coffee, their great grandparents are probably from here. In the afternoon everybody is hiding from the sun, so the place is empty. But then in the evening, young mothers will be pushing strollers along the promenade, dads will be drinking beer and ignoring their kids screaming for help, grandmothers laughing... When the night comes, it is where the local youngsters engage in their mating rituals and the older ones in their drinking rituals.

Dalmatians are tall people by nature, but still, my cousin Joke with his 2 meters (6'7) and his loud laugh is something you can't miss. Say hello, offer him a "Karlovačko" beer, and you won't regret it.

Chapel of St. Nicholas. You will not forget this place. A Christian chapel from the 11th century still standing on the edge of an abandoned stone quarry. Location here. You can combine this with Perivoj.

Pučišća. Cute little town not on the main touristic road, worth visiting. Old stone quarry used since ancient times is still in function. Brač stone is famous and the story goes that it was used for some parts of the White House in Washington, Reichstag in Berlin, the Hungarian parliament house... A must visit is the workshop of the oldest high school in Europe for stone cutting. In the evening you can see what those kids can make from stone, and it is impressive.

Lovrečina. A brilliant bay with a sandy beach plus the remains of the 6th-century basilica you can walk in. The important tip is to be there after 6PM and leave before 11AM. When all the daily cruisers rush in, it is like the beginning of Saving Private Ryan.


Moto Party, Livestock party. If you are around in July, check for those two events. Look for "vitalac", sheep intestines. Grilled on a spit bellow the lamb. Brač people are very proud of that. If you can't handle that, just take a normal piece of lamb. Traditionally prepared lamb is a religious experience for Dalmatians, especially Brač people. The only spice is salt. Look for the ribs with the crispy skin on top...

Bonus! My secret place! At the end of the runway of the Brač airport, climb the fence and proceed towards the cliff. You will be totally alone, far from the world. The view is like from an airplane.

I would really appreciate it if you send me some pictures!

Thanks for reading!

Oz

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